The Real Panama
December 14th, 2007
Panama ~ another Unique Safari
Panamanians are as colourful as the wildlife and fauna, their music as flavourful as their native foods, a blend of African, Caribbean and Spanish with dash of Chinese and European. Sancocho is a must; chicken and fish (corvina, sea bass) soup flavoured with cilantro. Treat yourself also to Fruit de Mar - giant scampi, tiny clams and corvine cooked in garlic sauce. I’ll not mention the bountiful fruit, as there are too many with names that are as exciting as their taste.
Mention Panama and most people attach the canal. Sometimes referred to as the 5th. Wonder of the world it draws visitors in cruise ships large and small from around the world. From the Caribbean to the Pacific there are islands, rivers, jungle, forests, mountains villages and towns that serve as supermarkets of vacation possibilities. Her colourful history includes the antics of Columbus, Henry Morgan, Sir Frances Drake and George Bush Senior.
Panama is situated 9 degrees north of the equator, 80 degrees west of the prime meridian is basically a thin strip of land that shapes the waist of the Americas, with a bustling the city that has a New York feel. The country offers access to many different and distant places, cultures and worlds all within reach of each other in just a few hours. If interested in the history of the Americas, this would be an ideal place to visit. Many things pertinent to the birth of what is now the U. S. A. happened in Panam`a.
In less than 24 hours of my arrival I met Ivan Hoyos and Mau who were to be guides for the next eight days. For the better part of the day we toured Panam`a Viejo, “Old Panam`a; (mira jo havlo espana!)!! New Panam`a is constantly changing with its mad dash toward over-development. Speculation high-rise apartments have already obscured the beautiful green mountain vistas. None of the Panamanians to which I spoke consider that development! Seeing Panam`a through Panamanian eyes is without a doubt the smartest way. Ivan and Mau confirmed that! Their knowledge of their country, its flowers and fauna is encyclopedic. I might add that they are both scientist keenly interested in the future of Panam`a. I suppose it was that passion that afforded us lunch at Rene’ Café’. Rene’s’ was a hit. I ordered sea bass with a green garlic sauce and seasoned rice. It was a good choice. The choice was also a good choice for those who ordered the beef as well as the chicken. Four people operating a restaurant need to move as one. There was a Chef, a waitress, a dishwasher and a manager /owner. Ten seasoned travelers from different areas of the United States of America, Bermuda two guides were served in short order and without a hitch. I learned later that Rene’ worked for years at a popular restaurant and that his departure was accompanied by the waitress, the chef, and the dishwasher. They appear to be doing well at making the move a successful venture.
I guess by now most of us are familiar with clichés “size matters; too big is a fit; one size fits all; if it does not fit force it; and more than a mouthful is too much”
I will admit, until my experience with her I never questioned the logic of such cliché’s. But things have changed!
We met just a day after my arrival in Panama. As it was an arranged meeting I did not know all that she was offering; she was new to the trade and catered to twenty-four clients at a time. This was to be her third experience since her arrival in Panama. I spotted her just beyond the trees in Portabelo. She was lying there, waiting to venture on her third voyage. Named Discovery, she’s a 33 meters, purpose built catamaran with 8 queen and 4 twin cabins not much smaller than can be found on most cruise ships, I might add! Sporting two Zodiacs, 8 kayaks and shallow draught affords her passage access to waters that are off limits to most vessels. Fresh water production is more than 24 passengers and six crew would consume at 35 liters per hour with two tanks, capacity 3500 liters. There is also enough snorkeling gear on board for clients wishing to enjoy Nature’s underwater splendor. Panama Exploration Cruise has named her 8-Day all inclusive voyages The Journey Between The Seas.
Discovery ventures where few passenger vessels can, carrying clients in near-luxurious comfort in THE shallow waters of Panama’s rivers and tributaries. Wildlife viewing and plant appreciation is carried out via Zodiac, Kayak, dugout or trek, all accompanied by an expert naturalist who is with you during the entire voyage can be appreciated up close and personal
Travelling in either direction the itinerary includes passage through the canal, the Charges River and Fort Lorenzo, San Telmo and Galera, the Pearl Islands, Mogo Mogo Island, the Darien Jungle to name a few. Enrooted there is the possibility of whale watching and following dolphins that come alongside to entertain. Included too are Cultural visits to the proud Embera People whose traditions and lifestyle goes back some time B. C. (Before Columbus) permits the privileged few the opportunity of purchasing cocobolo woodcarvings and colourful baskets fashioned by master crafters. One morning after breakfast we departed for the Darien Jungle to visit the Emberas in what some might cal dugouts, some longboats. I’ll err on the side of caution by saying that we traveled up river in two passenger-wide-sixteen capacity outboard driven tree trunks. Our transportation supplied by fishermen from the village, Punta Alegra “Happy Point”. I might add that punctuality appear to be their lifestyle. No waiting around for these guys; three hours before departure they were alongside!
On the first night in Portabelo we involved ourselves with the town’s people in celebrating the beginning of carnival. The entire town it appeared turned out with colourful costumes, dance, singing and drumming. This I learned would continue weekly until Shrove Tuesday. During daylight we visited the Church of San Felipe, the sanctuary of the Black Christ, explored fortifications and purchased crafts from the local vendors. A restful was welcomed aboard Discovery at anchor in the bay of Portobelo, the most important refuge for the Spanish galleons in the Caribbean.
There is almost too much to experience in panama but luckily Panamanians do not limit your visits. Be prepared to feel at home from the time an immigration officer says “welcome to Panam`a” as she stamps your passport. I should add, without searching for a new page to place the stamp thereby shortening the life of the passport.
Getting there: Copa Air from Orlando or Miami, Florida
Where to stay: Miramar Hotel, Gamboa Rainforest Hotel.
What to do: Panama Exploration Cruise “The Journey Between The Seas
Contact: Lloyd at uniquesafaris@northrock.bm
Web Sites: www.safaris-by-design.com & www.smallshipcruises.com
Contact: Lloyd Webbe, Unique Safaris, 27 Ewing Street, Hamilton HM 17, Bermuda
Telephone: (441) 295-7611 ~ Electronic mail: uniquesafaris@northrock.bm