ART, SPICE & MANY THINGS NICE
ZANZIBAR
It was back in 1987 or 8 when I made my first safari to Zanzibar (pronounced /?zænz?b?r/). I was not aware that the island would become a favorite destination for my safaris. Back then there was not much to neither encourage completion of a visit nor reason to return, to say the least.
I had arranged and paid for Meet and greet upon arrival with transportation from airport to hotel, accommodation in a specific hotel, tours, meals where applicable; you get the drift. I felt confident that my clients would be rewarded with value for cost. Bells should have sounded when the representative greeted me with the news that HE had changed the accommodation for the better. I will not describe the hotel’s amenities (lack thereof) but be assured that I was relieved that my clients had at this time appreciated my attention to detail and this SNAFU occurred toward the end of their safari. Partitioned rooms that shared the same ceiling and bathrooms where a drenching could be expected whenever the person in the next room (cubicle) showered. By this time my clients had experienced the best of whatever the region had to offer.
Perhaps I will credit my return visits to the island of spice to the combined warmth of Zanzibar people, architecture, delicious food and romantic nights.
Tanzania gained independence from Britain in December 1963. Later the United Republic of Tanganyika and Zanzibar was renamed the United Republic of Tanzania of which Zanzibar remains a semi-autonomous region. Zanzibar’s premier industries are spices, raffia, and tourism. It is sometimes referred to as the Spice Islands due to production of cloves. Zanzibar boasted world leadership in production of cloves also nutmeg, cinnamon and pepper. The capital Stone Town consists of narrow lanes, circular towers, mosques, beautiful carved wooden doors and hanging terraces
Somewhere I recall the word “Zanzibar” probably derives from the Persian Zangi-bar (”coast of the blacks”). The island was important to the Arab slave trade and Zanzibar City the main trading port of the East African slave trade, estimated to about 50,000 slaves a year passed through the city. The Sultan of Zanzibar controlled a substantial portion of the East African coast, that included Mombassa and Dar es Salaam plus trading routes that extended much further inland and to the Congo River. Today the house of Tipi tipi, reputed to have owned the largest amount of slaves stands derelict in Stone Town. Ironically it is not included amongst the important architectural features such as the Livingstone house, the Guliani Bridge, and the House of Wonders.
I have noticed many changes in Zanzibar. Automobiles making casual strolls less attractive traverse narrow lanes. The doorways in which tin and copper smiths plied their art now display curios that are hic uniquely Zanzibar. Boutique and luxury hotels flourish both in town and the countryside. Thankfully the trend towards high-rise mega structures has not spoiled this quaint tourist destination. Careful refurbishment has preserved the old structures and the brass studded, carved Zanzibar door can be seen throughout. The 5 Star Zanzibar Serena Hotel, formerly the Cable & Wireless building was tastefully recycled to blend with its architectural neighbours. Dhow builders can still be observed on many of Zanzibar’s beaches, constructing ocean going Dhows, using what I consider the most primitive and basic tools.
Five years ago Zanzibar added another page to her tourist attractions; Sauti Za Busara “Sounds of Wisdom” a Swahili Music Festival. Held annually in February the event has rapidly gained popularity worldwide. Artisans in music and dance gather from around the world, especially those from Swahili speaking nations to perform within the walls of an old fort. Colourful costumes on beautiful dancers glisten muscular drummers and acrobatic wonders transform the old fort into an African Los Vegas. The atmosphere is festive, electric as residents and visitors sit on blankets and wooden seats under starry, sometimes moonlit skies. Outside the fort food vendors and artist ply their flavour. This is art, spice & many things nice. This is Zanzibar
As I said, “Back then there was not much to encourage completion of a visit nor reason to return, to say the least”.
Zanzibar has changed without losing the warmth of her people, her delicious food and romantic nights. Reasons why I return often to the island of spice.
Lloyd Webbe of Unique Safaris has arranged and escorted safaris to Eastern and Southern Africa since 1986.
Unique Safaris / Safaris By Design
27 Ewing Street
Hamilton, Bermuda HM 17
Telephone: 441 295-7611
uniquesafaris@northrock.bm
www.safaris-by-design.com