Art, Spice & Everything Nice

June 30th, 2009

ART, SPICE & MANY THINGS NICE
ZANZIBAR
It was back in 1987 or 8 when I made my first safari to Zanzibar (pronounced /?zænz?b?r/). I was not aware that the island would become a favorite destination for my safaris. Back then there was not much to neither encourage completion of a visit nor reason to return, to say the least.
I had arranged and paid for Meet and greet upon arrival with transportation from airport to hotel, accommodation in a specific hotel, tours, meals where applicable; you get the drift. I felt confident that my clients would be rewarded with value for cost. Bells should have sounded when the representative greeted me with the news that HE had changed the accommodation for the better. I will not describe the hotel’s amenities (lack thereof) but be assured that I was relieved that my clients had at this time appreciated my attention to detail and this SNAFU occurred toward the end of their safari. Partitioned rooms that shared the same ceiling and bathrooms where a drenching could be expected whenever the person in the next room (cubicle) showered. By this time my clients had experienced the best of whatever the region had to offer.
Perhaps I will credit my return visits to the island of spice to the combined warmth of Zanzibar people, architecture, delicious food and romantic nights.
Tanzania gained independence from Britain in December 1963. Later the United Republic of Tanganyika and Zanzibar was renamed the United Republic of Tanzania of which Zanzibar remains a semi-autonomous region. Zanzibar’s premier industries are spices, raffia, and tourism. It is sometimes referred to as the Spice Islands due to production of cloves. Zanzibar boasted world leadership in production of cloves also nutmeg, cinnamon and pepper. The capital Stone Town consists of narrow lanes, circular towers, mosques, beautiful carved wooden doors and hanging terraces
Somewhere I recall the word “Zanzibar” probably derives from the Persian Zangi-bar (”coast of the blacks”). The island was important to the Arab slave trade and Zanzibar City the main trading port of the East African slave trade, estimated to about 50,000 slaves a year passed through the city. The Sultan of Zanzibar controlled a substantial portion of the East African coast, that included Mombassa and Dar es Salaam plus trading routes that extended much further inland and to the Congo River. Today the house of Tipi tipi, reputed to have owned the largest amount of slaves stands derelict in Stone Town. Ironically it is not included amongst the important architectural features such as the Livingstone house, the Guliani Bridge, and the House of Wonders.
I have noticed many changes in Zanzibar. Automobiles making casual strolls less attractive traverse narrow lanes. The doorways in which tin and copper smiths plied their art now display curios that are hic uniquely Zanzibar. Boutique and luxury hotels flourish both in town and the countryside. Thankfully the trend towards high-rise mega structures has not spoiled this quaint tourist destination. Careful refurbishment has preserved the old structures and the brass studded, carved Zanzibar door can be seen throughout. The 5 Star Zanzibar Serena Hotel, formerly the Cable & Wireless building was tastefully recycled to blend with its architectural neighbours. Dhow builders can still be observed on many of Zanzibar’s beaches, constructing ocean going Dhows, using what I consider the most primitive and basic tools.
Five years ago Zanzibar added another page to her tourist attractions; Sauti Za Busara “Sounds of Wisdom” a Swahili Music Festival. Held annually in February the event has rapidly gained popularity worldwide. Artisans in music and dance gather from around the world, especially those from Swahili speaking nations to perform within the walls of an old fort. Colourful costumes on beautiful dancers glisten muscular drummers and acrobatic wonders transform the old fort into an African Los Vegas. The atmosphere is festive, electric as residents and visitors sit on blankets and wooden seats under starry, sometimes moonlit skies. Outside the fort food vendors and artist ply their flavour. This is art, spice & many things nice. This is Zanzibar
As I said, “Back then there was not much to encourage completion of a visit nor reason to return, to say the least”.
Zanzibar has changed without losing the warmth of her people, her delicious food and romantic nights. Reasons why I return often to the island of spice.

Lloyd Webbe of Unique Safaris has arranged and escorted safaris to Eastern and Southern Africa since 1986.

Unique Safaris / Safaris By Design
27 Ewing Street
Hamilton, Bermuda HM 17
Telephone: 441 295-7611
uniquesafaris@northrock.bm
www.safaris-by-design.com

The Real Panama

December 14th, 2007

Panama ~ another Unique Safari 

Panamanians are as colourful as the wildlife and fauna, their music as flavourful as their native foods, a blend of African, Caribbean and Spanish with dash of Chinese and European.  Sancocho is a must; chicken and fish (corvina, sea bass) soup flavoured with cilantro.  Treat yourself also to Fruit de Mar – giant scampi, tiny clams and corvine cooked in garlic sauce.  I’ll not mention the bountiful fruit, as there are too many with names that are as exciting as their taste.

 

Mention Panama and most people attach the canal.  Sometimes referred to as the 5th. Wonder of the world it draws visitors in cruise ships large and small from around the world. From the Caribbean to the Pacific there are islands, rivers, jungle, forests, mountains villages and towns that serve as supermarkets of vacation possibilities.  Her colourful history includes the antics of Columbus, Henry Morgan, Sir Frances Drake and George Bush Senior.

 

Panama is situated 9 degrees north of the equator, 80 degrees west of the prime meridian is basically a thin strip of land that shapes the waist of the Americas, with a bustling the city that has a New York feel.  The country offers access to many different and distant places, cultures and worlds all within reach of each other in just a few hours.  If interested in the history of the Americas, this would be an ideal place to visit.  Many things pertinent to the birth of what is now the U. S. A. happened in Panam`a.

 

 

In less than 24 hours of my arrival I met Ivan Hoyos and Mau who were to be guides for the next eight days. For the better part of the day we toured Panam`a Viejo, “Old Panam`a; (mira jo havlo espana!)!! New Panam`a is constantly changing with its mad dash toward over-development.  Speculation high-rise apartments have already obscured the beautiful green mountain vistas.  None of the Panamanians to which I spoke consider that development!  Seeing Panam`a through Panamanian eyes is without a doubt the smartest way.  Ivan and Mau confirmed that!  Their knowledge of their country, its flowers and fauna is encyclopedic.  I might add that they are both scientist keenly interested in the future of Panam`a.  I suppose it was that passion that afforded us lunch at Rene’ Café’.  Rene’s’ was a hit.  I ordered sea bass with a green garlic sauce and seasoned rice.  It was a good choice.  The choice was also a good choice for those who ordered the beef as well as the chicken.  Four people operating a restaurant need to move as one.  There was a Chef, a waitress, a dishwasher and a manager /owner.  Ten seasoned travelers from different areas of the United States of America, Bermuda two guides were served in short order and without a hitch.  I learned later that Rene’ worked for years at a popular restaurant and that his departure was accompanied by the waitress, the chef, and the dishwasher.  They appear to be doing well at making the move a successful venture.

 

I guess by now most of us are familiar with clichés “size matters; too big is a fit; one size fits all; if it does not fit force it; and more than a mouthful is too much”

I will admit, until my experience with her I never questioned the logic of such cliché’s.  But things have changed!

 

We met just a day after my arrival in Panama.  As it was an arranged meeting I did not know all that she was offering; she was new to the trade and catered to twenty-four clients at a time.  This was to be her third experience since her arrival in Panama. I spotted her just beyond the trees in Portabelo.  She was lying there, waiting to venture on her third voyage.  Named Discovery, she’s a 33 meters, purpose built catamaran with 8 queen and 4 twin cabins not much smaller than can be found on most cruise ships, I might add!  Sporting two Zodiacs, 8 kayaks and shallow draught affords her passage access to waters that are off limits to most vessels.  Fresh water production is more than 24 passengers and six crew would consume at 35 liters per hour with two tanks, capacity 3500 liters.  There is also enough snorkeling gear on board for clients wishing to enjoy Nature’s underwater splendor.  Panama Exploration Cruise has named her 8-Day all inclusive voyages The Journey Between The Seas.

 

Discovery ventures where few passenger vessels can, carrying clients in near-luxurious comfort in THE shallow waters of Panama’s rivers and tributaries.  Wildlife viewing and plant appreciation is carried out via Zodiac, Kayak, dugout or trek, all accompanied by an expert naturalist who is with you during the entire voyage can be appreciated up close and personal

 

Travelling in either direction the itinerary includes passage through the canal, the Charges River and Fort Lorenzo, San Telmo and Galera, the Pearl Islands, Mogo Mogo Island, the Darien Jungle to name a few.  Enrooted there is the possibility of whale watching and following dolphins that come alongside to entertain. Included too are Cultural visits to the proud Embera People whose traditions and lifestyle goes back some time B. C. (Before Columbus) permits the privileged few the opportunity of purchasing cocobolo woodcarvings and colourful baskets fashioned by master crafters.  One morning after breakfast we departed for the Darien Jungle to visit the Emberas in what some might cal dugouts, some longboats. I’ll err on the side of caution by saying that we traveled up river in two passenger-wide-sixteen capacity outboard driven tree trunks.  Our transportation supplied by fishermen from the village, Punta Alegra  “Happy Point”.  I might add that punctuality appear to be their lifestyle.  No waiting around for these guys; three hours before departure they were alongside!

 

On the first night in Portabelo we involved ourselves with the town’s people in celebrating the beginning of carnival.  The entire town it appeared turned out with colourful costumes, dance, singing and drumming.  This I learned would continue weekly until Shrove Tuesday.  During daylight we visited the Church of San Felipe, the sanctuary of the Black Christ, explored fortifications and purchased crafts from the local vendors. A restful was welcomed aboard Discovery at anchor in the bay of Portobelo, the most important refuge for the Spanish galleons in the Caribbean.

 

There is almost too much to experience in panama but luckily Panamanians do not limit your visits. Be prepared to feel at home from the time an immigration officer says “welcome to Panam`a” as she stamps your passport.  I should add, without searching for a new page to place the stamp thereby shortening the life of the passport.

 

Getting there: Copa Air from Orlando or Miami, Florida

Where to stay: Miramar Hotel, Gamboa Rainforest Hotel.

What to do: Panama Exploration Cruise “The Journey Between The Seas

Contact: Lloyd at uniquesafaris@northrock.bm

Web Sites: www.safaris-by-design.com & www.smallshipcruises.com 

Contact: Lloyd Webbe, Unique Safaris, 27 Ewing Street, Hamilton HM 17, Bermuda

 

Telephone: (441) 295-7611 ~ Electronic mail: uniquesafaris@northrock.bm